How to Shampoo Your Hair Like a Pro (Step-by-Step Guide)

By Fabi Pro Beauty — Master Colorist & Extensions Specialist in NYC

The Perfect Wash Routine

1. Saturate with lukewarm water (60–90 seconds).
   Fully soaking the hair opens the cuticle slightly and loosens buildup. Avoid hot water—it dries the scalp and fades color faster.
2. First shampoo = “lift & loosen.”
   Emulsify a nickel-size amount in your hands. Focus on the scalp, not the ends. Massage with fingertips (not nails) for 30–60 seconds.
   Why: The first cleanse breaks down oils, sweat, dry shampoo, and pollution.
3. Rinse thoroughly.
   Rinse until the water runs clear and you no longer feel slip from product.
4. Second shampoo = “deep cleanse.”
   Use a smaller amount than the first pass. Work the scalp again and let the suds run through mid-lengths briefly.
   Why: The second wash actually cleans now that buildup is lifted—hello fresh scalp!
5. Condition (mid-lengths to ends only).
   Squeeze out excess water first so conditioner sticks. Comb through with a wide-tooth comb. Do not apply on the scalp (especially important for fine hair and extensions).
   Leave 2–3 minutes, then rinse cool-to-lukewarm.
6. Optional: Mask day (replace conditioner).
   When it’s “mask day,” skip conditioner and use a mask (see chart below). Towel-blot first, apply mid-lengths to ends, leave 5–10 minutes (or label directions), then rinse thoroughly.
7. Post-shower care.
   Gently blot—don’t rub. Apply a leave-in conditioner for slip and a heat protectant before blow-drying. Finish with a light serum/oil on the ends for shine.

How Often Should You Wash?

• Fine/oily or gym-everyday: every 1–2 days
• Normal/straight or wavy: every 2–3 days
• Curly/coily: every 3–7 days (co-wash between if needed)
• Extensions: follow your stylist’s advice; typically 1-2 times per week

Tip: If your hair looks flat by Day 2, try using less conditioner, rinsing longer, or adding a weekly clarifying step (then always follow with a mask).

Hair Masks 101: When & Which One

How often to mask:

• Most hair types: 1× per week
• Very dry/curly/high-porosity: 1–2× per week
• Fine hair: every other week (or choose a lightweight mask)

How much: Start with a cherry-to-quarter size; add more only if needed. Too much = limp hair.

Pick the Right Mask for Your Hair Type

Hair/Scalp Situation	What You Need	What to Look For	How Often
Fine or Oily Hair	Lightweight hydration	Gel-cream masks, glycerin, panthenol; avoid heavy butters on roots	Every 2 weeks
Dry, Brittle, or Heat-Damaged	Deep moisture + softness	Shea/cupuacu, argan, squalane, amino acids	Weekly
Color-Treated/Highlighted	Repair + color care	Bond-building, amino acids, ceramides; color-safe	Weekly
Curly/Coily	Moisture retention + frizz control	Rich emollients, humectants; curl-friendly, silicone-optional	1–2× per week
High-Porosity/Over-Processed	Strength + structure	Protein masks (keratin, wheat, silk); alternate with moisture	Weekly (alternate)
Low-Porosity	Penetration help	Lighter formulas; brief warm towel over mask to help absorption	Weekly
Flaky/Itchy Scalp	Scalp reset	Scalp masks with gentle exfoliants (salicylic acid) or soothing zinc/tea tree (keep off lengths)	Every 1–2 weeks
Extensions (tape-in, K-tip, sew-in, row)	Slip on ends, zero slip at bonds	Mask only from mid-lengths down; avoid oils near attachments	Every 1–2 weeks, never on bonds
Keratin/Magic Sleek	Smoothness maintenance

Protein vs. Moisture (simple rule):

• Hair feels mushy/over-soft? Needs protein.
• Hair feels stiff/rough/tangles easily? Needs moisture.
  Alternate them if you’re very processed or highlighted.

Clarifying: Do You Need It?

If you use dry shampoo, heavy styling products, swim, or have hard water, add a clarifying shampoo every 1–2 weeks. Always follow with a mask right after to re-balance.

Extensions Care (Must-Read)

• Shampoo with gentle pressure between rows/sections; never scratch bonds.
• Keep conditioner/mask off the scalp and attachments—apply mid-lengths to ends only.
• Squeeze water out before applying product so it doesn’t travel up to bonds.
• Detangle from ends up, holding the weft/bond for support.
• Sleep in a loose braid or silk scrunchie; use a silk pillowcase to minimize friction.

Quick Mistakes to Avoid

• Using hot water (causes frizz, fades color).
• Skipping the second shampoo (leaves scalp residue).
• Conditioner on scalp (flat, greasy roots; risks for extensions).
• Too much mask (weighs hair down).
• No heat protectant before blow-drying or irons.

FAQ

Can I “pre-poo”?

Yes—apply a light oil to dry ends 20 minutes before washing if hair is very dry or curly. Avoid roots and extension bonds.

Purple shampoo for blondes—how often?

Every 1–2 washes as needed. Use on the second shampoo step; follow with a hydrating mask to prevent dryness.

Want a custom product routine?

Book a consultation with Fabi Pro Beauty (Midtown East, NYC). We’ll match your hair type, color, and lifestyle to the right shampoo/mask plan—plus tailored guidance for extensions and keratin clients.

🌐 Website: www.fabiprobeauty.com

📸 Instagram: @fabiprobeauty

💖 Book Now at Fabi Pro Beauty